Technical Information
Harley VL Book Additions 1st March 2017
Page 9-1. 1930-33 oil pump. The screw 672-29 in the back of the oil pump adjusts the rest position of the hinged plate that controls oil flow. If your oil pump overoils, put a longer 038 or 039 screw in this hole, which will hold the plate more vertical, reduce the stroke of the little pistons, and so reduce oil flow. This also works for late JD models.
Page 10-1. Exhaust pipes. It is always a struggle mounting the front exhaust pipes, but made easier by removing the rear footboard support rod and the brake crossover shaft right hand lever.
Page 13-1. Transmission. For at least earlier 1930 there is no Alemite grease fitting on the kicker arm.
Page 13-7. Clutch. There are two ways to build the clutch pack, and the correct way does not have a spring over one of the three drive disc legs.
Page 17-1. Front mudguard. The mudflap holes are 1.5” up from the bottom of the mudguard, and round head screws are used for fixing, rather than the fillister ones called for in the parts book. The front stand catch holes are 3.25” and 4.25” up from the bottom rear of the 1934-36 front mudguard, and filled with 042/0106 bolts/nuts even when the stand is not fitted.
Page 17-1. Rear mudguard. For the 1934-36 item, the three holes for fixing the luggage rack tongue are 16, 17 and 18 inches in front of the rear mudguard hinge. These are drilled and filled with 051/0108 screws/nuts when the luggage rack is not fitted.
Page 18-13. Front brake. Be careful to tighten the 1935/6 brake shoe pivot stud before riding, or the brake can self-actuate and lock up the front wheel. How do I know this? Rear brake is probably similar.
Page 19-12. Brake light switch. This is wired with a green cable from the coil to the switch and a red wire from the switch to the taillight.
Page 24-6. Paint codes. 1932 Delft blue is RAL 5020. 1932/3 Turquoise is RAL 6034. The 1936 Sherwood Green is 1982 Mercedes Forest Green Code 6822, Dupont-W8230K. The corresponding Silver matches to Dupont-754761 Image Point 2004 Silver-Effect Base/clear.
Page 26-5. Mileage. David Reidie went for an Australian Outback run on his VLD, covering 2200 km including 850 km of dirt and gravel road. He reported 5 litres oil consumption and 8 litres fuel per 100 km. I make this 1100 miles per US gallon of oil and 31 miles per US gallon of fuel.
Page 28-3. Valuations. A good 1936 VLH project sold on eBay in 2014 for $20,500. An accurately restored 36VLH sold in Europe the same year for $42,000.
Page 9-6. Oil pumps. Everyone worries that their oil pump may not be working, but the flow rate is so small you can operate the kickstart until blue in the face and see nothing. To check, remove the mechanical feed oil line, blocking at the tank with a plastic bag and elastic band if you do not have the 3583-15 cap. Fill up the oil pump inlet nipple from an oil can, start up the engine, then observe the level in the nipple go down, topping up as necessary from the oil can. To adjust oil rate see page 26-1.
Page C-8. 46a. Sealed bearings. These days many people are using sealed ball bearings to reduce gearbox oil leaks. These may not be as strong as the original setup, but no problems have been reported so far. A modern 6304-2RS sealed ball bearing at the kicker end of the mainshaft will replace 2280-15, and it does no harm to install the brass oil seal as well. At the drive end, sealed bearing 6208-2RS replaces inner and outer races, as well as the roller cage, roller bearings, retainer clip and brass oil seal. The 2288-17 bearing plate must remain. If the inner bushing is hard to remove, try clamping the main drive gear face up in a vice, with 1/4" diameter screwdriver shanks either side, then applying heat.
Page 9-1. 1930-33 oil pump. The screw 672-29 in the back of the oil pump adjusts the rest position of the hinged plate that controls oil flow. If your oil pump overoils, put a longer 038 or 039 screw in this hole, which will hold the plate more vertical, reduce the stroke of the little pistons, and so reduce oil flow. This also works for late JD models.
Page 10-1. Exhaust pipes. It is always a struggle mounting the front exhaust pipes, but made easier by removing the rear footboard support rod and the brake crossover shaft right hand lever.
Page 13-1. Transmission. For at least earlier 1930 there is no Alemite grease fitting on the kicker arm.
Page 13-7. Clutch. There are two ways to build the clutch pack, and the correct way does not have a spring over one of the three drive disc legs.
Page 17-1. Front mudguard. The mudflap holes are 1.5” up from the bottom of the mudguard, and round head screws are used for fixing, rather than the fillister ones called for in the parts book. The front stand catch holes are 3.25” and 4.25” up from the bottom rear of the 1934-36 front mudguard, and filled with 042/0106 bolts/nuts even when the stand is not fitted.
Page 17-1. Rear mudguard. For the 1934-36 item, the three holes for fixing the luggage rack tongue are 16, 17 and 18 inches in front of the rear mudguard hinge. These are drilled and filled with 051/0108 screws/nuts when the luggage rack is not fitted.
Page 18-13. Front brake. Be careful to tighten the 1935/6 brake shoe pivot stud before riding, or the brake can self-actuate and lock up the front wheel. How do I know this? Rear brake is probably similar.
Page 19-12. Brake light switch. This is wired with a green cable from the coil to the switch and a red wire from the switch to the taillight.
Page 24-6. Paint codes. 1932 Delft blue is RAL 5020. 1932/3 Turquoise is RAL 6034. The 1936 Sherwood Green is 1982 Mercedes Forest Green Code 6822, Dupont-W8230K. The corresponding Silver matches to Dupont-754761 Image Point 2004 Silver-Effect Base/clear.
Page 26-5. Mileage. David Reidie went for an Australian Outback run on his VLD, covering 2200 km including 850 km of dirt and gravel road. He reported 5 litres oil consumption and 8 litres fuel per 100 km. I make this 1100 miles per US gallon of oil and 31 miles per US gallon of fuel.
Page 28-3. Valuations. A good 1936 VLH project sold on eBay in 2014 for $20,500. An accurately restored 36VLH sold in Europe the same year for $42,000.
Page 9-6. Oil pumps. Everyone worries that their oil pump may not be working, but the flow rate is so small you can operate the kickstart until blue in the face and see nothing. To check, remove the mechanical feed oil line, blocking at the tank with a plastic bag and elastic band if you do not have the 3583-15 cap. Fill up the oil pump inlet nipple from an oil can, start up the engine, then observe the level in the nipple go down, topping up as necessary from the oil can. To adjust oil rate see page 26-1.
Page C-8. 46a. Sealed bearings. These days many people are using sealed ball bearings to reduce gearbox oil leaks. These may not be as strong as the original setup, but no problems have been reported so far. A modern 6304-2RS sealed ball bearing at the kicker end of the mainshaft will replace 2280-15, and it does no harm to install the brass oil seal as well. At the drive end, sealed bearing 6208-2RS replaces inner and outer races, as well as the roller cage, roller bearings, retainer clip and brass oil seal. The 2288-17 bearing plate must remain. If the inner bushing is hard to remove, try clamping the main drive gear face up in a vice, with 1/4" diameter screwdriver shanks either side, then applying heat.