Just about everything you need to restore a VL is in the fourth edition of our $50 VL Restoration Book by Steve Slocombe mentioned on the home page. This contains historical background, buying tips, technical specifications, exploded diagrams, rebuild procedures, paint and striping details, correct finish on visible parts, and running-in and riding hints. Most of this information has been researched especially for this book and is not available in any other publication. Here are reviews of earlier editions:

" To me this is the best book on how to restore a bike that I can recall. Warm, funny, yet very well thought out and put together. Even if you own another type of bike, you will probably enjoy this...but if you own a 1930-36 Big Twin VL, then this is a MUST".
Walneck's Classic Cycle Trader.

"I was impressed with the thoroughness of Steve's book. He has supplied plenty of excellent advice, accompanied by good photographs depicting year-on-year changes. His dedication to the VL is very evident, and has resulted in a well thought out book to share his experiences and knowledge with other Big Twin enthusiasts".
The Antique Motorcycle (magazine of the AMCA).

Steve is happy to talk with restorers about technical details not in the book - see the contacts page.

For those with the latest fourth edition book, the following details can be added based on fresh information:

p15 now has an exploded diagram of the 1936 clutch pedal assembly - see also p108.

p56. Balance factor for the flywheels is now believed to be 46 percent. (John M, England, from an old data book).

p99. The main fork section was widened under the bridge about 1/4" (7mm) in 1934, to give 5 different main forks and six different springer legs for the VL, summarised on p40.

p106. The rear left hand frame lug carried over from the 1929 four tube muffler was removed sometime in late 1934. That gives seven different VL frames, described in a new table on p40.

p138. The VL wheel lacing procedure has been added.

p176. For the 1934-36 oil pump the non-return ball check valve and spring in the back of the pump body should be checked. To be sure the chain oiler is not passing, drill and tap the small chain oiler hole in the back of the pump body and blank it off with a screw. (Geoff S, England). Also make sure the die cast pump body is flat at the rear, or oil can pass under the oiler valve disc 688-34 and through the pump while the bike is standing. (Keith H, Australia).

p205. The striping color for the 1935 Egyptian Ivory and Brown paint option is Vermilion. (Rich S original paint bike, USA).

P206. The striping color for the Maroon and Nile Green paint option is gold (original paint tank, USA). The teak red/black color scheme has some of the colors reversed. A sticker to correct your book is available on request.

p209-222. The finishes section has been revised, with about 20 small changes since Version 3.0.